Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
